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Thread: Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread

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  1. #1
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Nice job!!
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  2. #2
    Senior Member shinn497's Avatar
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    Keep taking photos of this amazing build please.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Wow. I think it says production car. Expensive production car.
    I've just spent 40 minutes admiring, expanding, drooling over your photos. I've admired your workmanship and creativity for months and especially like your tasteful, understated approach. Now that it's out on the streets it will be interesting to hear the reactions you get.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Looks amazing! I didn't think I was going to like that spoiler but it looks great!! Has a last-gen Lotus Esprit look to it.... which is a good thing IMHO.
    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    Nice job!!
    Quote Originally Posted by shinn497 View Post
    Keep taking photos of this amazing build please.
    Thanks guys for the positive reinforcement!

    I will be starting on the bikini top next while I continue to finish odds and ends. More pics to follow.
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  4. #4
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    Beautiful, fantastic job.

  5. #5
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Beautiful....incredible work!
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Kalstar's Avatar
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    Looks outstanding. Hard to improve what you have done. As for flooring I would look into carpets from Jeeps, designed to drain quickly and not smell. Cut to size and make removable via strong Velcro.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by riptide motorsport View Post
    Beautiful....incredible work!
    Thanks, it's been fun to kind of make my own and build.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kalstar View Post
    Looks outstanding. Hard to improve what you have done. As for flooring I would look into carpets from Jeeps, designed to drain quickly and not smell. Cut to size and make removable via strong Velcro.
    I appreciate the compliments and comments. I need to do some research, there has to be a vendor out there can has those water proof materials that can custom shape floor mats from a template.
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  8. #8
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Re rain water, most of the roadster guys drill a hole or two in the floor to let it drain out. The 818 has open slots in the rear of the floor boards so I'll leave those open, but covered with removable carpet. Like you did, I also sealed the panels under the seats - water can drain to the floor and out the slots.

    I also drilled 3/8" holes in the corners of the panel under the battery compartment because water can come in from the hood vents or through the radiator to pool up deep enough for ducks.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  9. #9
    Senior Member Oppenheimer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Re rain water, most of the roadster guys drill a hole or two in the floor to let it drain out.
    ...and they use boat carpet on the floor. I think you can get a nice, finished look, that is still water resistant (holes to allow drainage and carpet that will dry out quickly and not mold).

    As for oem look interior, the one thing I didn't see mentioned is the Aluminum door handles. They look cool, but there just isn't anything else that is bare Aluminum in the interior to match. So they sort of stick out. If there was more of a bare aluminum theme going on they would work. So maybe powder coat them black or paint them flat black. Then maybe paint the inside of the holes red for a little contrast and to add some more red flare to match the seats and steering wheel.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    sorry, screams was a poor choice of words. My point was meant to be, that everything about the 818 looks better than its price point except the interior and a few minor things on the exterior (exposed screws on the taillights come to mind)




    I think that will be the game changer that takes it to the next level of finish that rivals an oem interior.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oppenheimer View Post
    ...and they use boat carpet on the floor. I think you can get a nice, finished look, that is still water resistant (holes to allow drainage and carpet that will dry out quickly and not mold).

    As for oem look interior, the one thing I didn't see mentioned is the Aluminum door handles. They look cool, but there just isn't anything else that is bare Aluminum in the interior to match. So they sort of stick out. If there was more of a bare aluminum theme going on they would work. So maybe powder coat them black or paint them flat black. Then maybe paint the inside of the holes red for a little contrast and to add some more red flare to match the seats and steering wheel.
    Thanks guys for taking the time to comment.

    I actually had planned on powder coating the handles black too. The few times I've actually driven it so far I noticed I just grabbed the top of the door to close, not the handle. So wear on the finish shouldn't be a problem.

    But the interior is on hold while (1) I think about it some more, and after I get tags and drive it some, (2) I started working on the bikini top.

    While one of my other cars was in the shop I rented a convertible Mustang. Was able to really play tourist for a couple days. (Most frequently rented car for tourists here are convertibles).

    My Jeep has only ever had a bikini top here, and no air. Only every once in a while do I miss it. In the Mustang I had the air on high and was roasting in the middle of the day. So now the 818 bikini top is priority.

    No pics yet, but started on the windshield channel. Metal is cut and I started welding the pieces together. I'm copying how the top on my Jeep is done, with a 1/2" deep slot, 3/16" wide groove for the canvas covered plastic tap to slip into. A little more difficult following the curve of the windshield and then the downward radius on each end.

    So this is mostly in my head that what I have planned will work, so no holes drilled in the 818 until prove the concept! I just put a new top on the Jeep so now I have a good sacrifice to practice with.
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  11. #11
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    Umm not sure how the double post happened
    Nolan
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    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

    818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)

  12. #12
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?
    So I riveted a piece of 1" angle to the inside top of the door, and after I cut the top of the door card the same width along the top and wrapped with leather, I used Velcro to hold the door card in place. No visible fasteners. If you look close in my last round of pics you can see the silver top of the rivets and the door cards not tight to the door. I used some lightweight Velcro because I didn't want to tear something up to get the door cards off and on. Now I need to switch to the heavy duty version.

    image.jpg
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  14. #14
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?
    Craig,
    Did you see this in the manual update?
    door.jpg

  15. #15
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Craig,
    Did you see this in the manual update?
    door.jpg
    I did. They still go and put screws directly on the top of the flange into the door. I want it to not look like you just bolted on a panel. I think the best is if the door panel can fit entirely inside the door skin with a strip of trip around it to hide the gap.

    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    I think the way the door cards hit the dash at a 90 (not just on your car, but all of them) is what really screams kit car.

    The gtm dash and doors really sculpt around you making it feel like a much more finished interior.

    I think the flatness of the doors needs to be addressed for a more oem like feel.
    It doesn't necessarily say kit car, but does say low cost. My WRX, envoy, and mini cooper have very similar dash layouts, though many newer cars (especially higher dollar cars) do have the sculpted feel.
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  16. #16
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    Looks amazing!

  17. #17
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    So the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and the part of the card on top of the door just did there?
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  18. #18
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    So the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and the part of the card on top of the door just did there?
    Yes, the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and on the vertical surface of the aluminum angle I riveted to the length of the top of the door facing the door card. I also modified the latch side of the door and door card. This face is also held in place with Velcro. I did mechanically attach the door card to the door through the bottom of the door. So no visible fasteners anywhere on the door card.
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  19. #19
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    I think the way the door cards hit the dash at a 90 (not just on your car, but all of them) is what really screams kit car.

    The gtm dash and doors really sculpt around you making it feel like a much more finished interior.

    I think the flatness of the doors needs to be addressed for a more oem like feel.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    I think the way the door cards hit the dash at a 90 (not just on your car, but all of them) is what really screams kit car.

    The gtm dash and doors really sculpt around you making it feel like a much more finished interior.

    I think the flatness of the doors needs to be addressed for a more oem like feel.
    Your right about the way the dash and the door cards come together when the doors are closed. I wouldn't necessarily say it screams "kit car" per se, as I have seen production cars with similar detail, although a little more "design".

    I had thought about molding in some design elements around installing the speakers in the door card and making a deeper storage pocket. Completely doable with fiberglass and some time. Then wrapping with leather.

    Maybe if I get bored one day!
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  21. #21
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    sorry, screams was a poor choice of words. My point was meant to be, that everything about the 818 looks better than its price point except the interior and a few minor things on the exterior (exposed screws on the taillights come to mind)


    Quote Originally Posted by Aloha818 View Post

    I had thought about molding in some design elements around installing the speakers in the door card and making a deeper storage pocket. Completely doable with fiberglass and some time. Then wrapping with leather.

    Maybe if I get bored one day!
    I think that will be the game changer that takes it to the next level of finish that rivals an oem interior.
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 09-12-2014 at 06:02 AM.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  22. #22
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    I had a chance to meet Gary today and see his car in Honolulu. This is one of the first "finished" 818 I have seen other than FFR/SEMA cars. Gary did a great job on the fit and finish. The car looked and sounded terrific. The Borla exhaust that he used was very nice sounding. The mods that Gray has done were great, in just talking to Gary in the parking lot everyone that walked by had something to say about the car.

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  23. #23
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    I had a chance to meet Gary today and see his car in Honolulu. This is one of the first "finished" 818 I have seen other than FFR/SEMA cars. Gary did a great job on the fit and finish. The car looked and sounded terrific. The Borla exhaust that he used was very nice sounding. The mods that Gray has done were great, in just talking to Gary in the parking lot everyone that walked by had something to say about the car.
    It was great meeting Tony today and I wish him well on his build! Thanks for the kind words!
    Last edited by Aloha818; 11-14-2014 at 08:26 PM.
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  24. #24
    Member CanadianYank's Avatar
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    Killer build progress and I really like the rear roll bar mod. I'll copy that if you don't mind... Man you have done a lot of firsts with this build.

    Frank

  25. #25
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanadianYank View Post
    Killer build progress and I really like the rear roll bar mod. I'll copy that if you don't mind... Man you have done a lot of firsts with this build.

    Frank
    Thanks for the compliment! Sure, every time I look at the roll bars it reaffirms my choice!
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  26. #26
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    You should be able to buy aluminum channel extruded for that rope in a pocket front edge if that is what you are going for...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  27. #27
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    Aloha, now you have another several hours of reading as it seams I've missed some of your build. I am finding the balance of building and seeing what cool things others do to be difficult to manage. Lol great job on the build! I'm nowhere near body panels but will referring back when I do. Now I need to start from the beginning (again) to see what I missed :-D
    Nolan
    65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

    818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)

  28. #28
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Aloha, If you check the forums for RV's you will find all sorts of add-on extrusions that they add to the side of an RV to hold the canopy on. One of those may be what you are looking for.

    With my YJ the bikini top has a sewn on metal strip that just slides into the top of the windshield. Then when you tension the bikini at the back it holds in place. I was thinking of something similar as well.

  29. #29
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    I believe Craig mentioned that FFR will sell the header piece alone from the soft-top. That might be more than's needed for a simple bikini top, but it's an existing option that might work.

  30. #30
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    I believe Craig mentioned that FFR will sell the header piece alone from the soft-top. That might be more than's needed for a simple bikini top, but it's an existing option that might work.
    That's correct. It's something like $75, but confirm with Joe @ FFR. Anyone who makes a bikini top would be rather smart to utilize the same mounting structure.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    That's correct. It's something like $75, but confirm with Joe @ FFR. Anyone who makes a bikini top would be rather smart to utilize the same mounting structure.
    I just heard back from Joe... The company (that makes the top) will not sell any of those pieces individually. They'll only sell them if they're replacement parts for someone who already has a top.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
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  32. #32
    Senior Member Oppenheimer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    I just heard back from Joe... The company (that makes the top) will not sell any of those pieces individually. They'll only sell them if they're replacement parts for someone who already has a top.
    Quote Originally Posted by Aloha818 View Post
    I'll have over 10 hours in building that piece plus powdercoating.
    Like Mechie3 said, that is just STOOPIT from a marketing standpoint. Guys are going to roll their own bikini's like Aloha is doing, then they will have 0 incentive to buy the full top from these guys later if they decide they want more coverage and still use their bikini sometimes. If this vendor makes these parts available to everyone, then anything those builders make will be compatible. Yes, there will be a chance that some might make their own full top, instead of buying the one from this vendor, but they aren't going to be selling them to others (or they'd make their own parts for mounting). If someone is going to make their own top for their own use, they probably weren't going to buy a full top from the vendor anyway. So no sale is lost.

    If you are really worried about someone using your mounts to make and sell their own tops, then only allow one per customer of the individual parts. Their current position is just silly, and is going to only cost them sales down the road, and isn't going to prevent any lost sales now.

    OK, rant over. Sorry to hijack this awesome thread.

  33. #33
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    wanna see a photo? I took these for Craig

    P1120138.JPG P1120139.JPG
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  34. #34
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    Hmmmm... I wonder what they charge for just the header piece? I need a bikini top to keep this crazy-hot direct sunlight off of me... I have the same problem you guys have during the winter, in that I can't drive it during the hot summer months...
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  35. #35
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I'm not sure that is the best approach... not there yet to work on it. I think I want something that is permanent to attach the bikini top
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

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  37. #36
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    And, can a "bikini top" be left on a car while it is being trailered? Or will it rip to shreds or pummel the finish?

  38. #37
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    And, can a "bikini top" be left on a car while it is being trailered? Or will it rip to shreds or pummel the finish?

    I hope so, otherwise it will probably self destruct while driving.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  39. #38
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    I'm not sure that is the best approach... not there yet to work on it. I think I want something that is permanent to attach the bikini top
    My idea was that if you were to market the bikini top it would be compatible with everyone who has already purchased FFR's top. It also allows others to upgrade to a full top later on as well so they'd be less hesitant to purchase the bikini top for fear of being unable to get the full top later. I haven't seen it in person to know if it's the best method, but from a marketing standpoint copying is good.
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  40. #39
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Guess it's changed since I heard from him last month.
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  41. #40
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    I just heard back from Joe... The company (that makes the top) will not sell any of those pieces individually. They'll only sell them if they're replacement parts for someone who already has a top.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Guess it's changed since I heard from him last month.
    Wallace bought one, ask him to order a "replacement" for you

    I'll have over 10 hours in building that piece plus powdercoating.
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

  42. Thanks jbs72697 thanked for this post
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