Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread

[Aloha818]

Hi Gary
Welcome back,
I have an 2004FXT/AT/TCU/cluster and 2005FXT/AT/TCU/cluster/ matching immobilizer/ECU/key.
Out of my 2 donors if you need anything.

On both my AT there was a canbus to talk to the ECU. So maybe that is why your light is coming on.
There is also some interaction between the TCU and ABS.
What year is your donor.
Bob

Bob, thanks much for the welcome back and offers!

My donor was a 2000 Imprezza Outback. The Subaru all wheel drive and auto trans is pretty intelligent as factory. The TCU monitors the ECU and some engine funtions directly. Since it knows engine speed, vehicle speed, vacuum (this was a non turbo vehicle) throttle position and braking the TCU knows to shift power to the rear when vacuum is low, throttle is maxed and rpms are high because it knows you are going uphill. If vacuum is high, throttle is at min, and brakes are applied the TCU knows you are going downhill so if shifts power to the front wheels. Under hard throttle the TCU sends a signal to the ECU to cut power to the coil for a split second as the transmission up shifts to lighten the pressure.

In my application the TCU is only getting info from the TPS and brake input. On this model it blinks a code on the trans oil temp light on the dash. Basically letting me know its missing connections. But in all my driving the trans runs as it should, yea! After tuning I will change the TCU oil temp light to an actual temp sensor to get rid of the flashing.

That being said, I had a great day playing with the laptop and learning to tune. And of course driving!

I rechecked everything under the engine bay and reinstalled the panels and the firewall. Gave it a good wash and wiped everything down with leather/vinyl cleaner. (I'm in the heart of Honolulu so I can't drive around a dirty car) I have the engine running well enough that if I feather into the throttle I can run up the rpms into boost without going lean.

Really need to get to the tuner now before I blow this up! Crazy fun!

Anyway, here is a quick video on a back road.

[Sgt.Gator]

Congrats!

[Aloha818]

Tweaked the Haltech a little more to get by until a find new injectors and the Haltech boost controller comes in. By a couple online calculators I tried it looks like I need 450-500 cc flow injectors. The ones in my engine are 280cc. No sense wasting time on the dyno till I'm closer.

Somehow over my time away the windshield cracked, I'm the only one with access to the garage, don't know what happened. I read a 2000 MR2 Spyder works? Will try and get that done this week.

Worked a bit today on the door sill filler panels. I installed speakers in the side kick panel, so I used some sound deadening pads to line the area. I wrapped the aluminum with the same carbon fiber wrap I used on my center radio/gauge pod. Turned out pretty good, and made the stereo sound great. I'll take some pics in a day or two. Now I can take the car to a local upholsterer to get some custom carpet/floor mats made.

I used a 2006 windshield wiper motor, and Jerry rigged the electrical for testing, anyone have the electrical connector they aren't using I could buy?

[Scargo]

Look for blue 565 cc injectors. I'm assuming you are using top-feeds. They are all over Ebay for $150. I have some with low miles on them I would sell for less. I went to ID 1000's because of 500 (crank) HP tune. Putting ID 2000's in motor I'm building for the STi track car.

[Frank818]

OT: I wish I'd live in Hawaii.

[Aloha818]

Look for blue 565 cc injectors. I'm assuming you are using top-feeds. They are all over Ebay for $150. I have some with low miles on them I would sell for less. I went to ID 1000's because of 500 (crank) HP tune. Putting ID 2000's in motor I'm building for the STi track car.

Scargo, thanks for the reply and offer. The stock injectors are Denso 2970030

image.jpeg

The WRX injectors look a little different. I have an email out to five o motor sports to see what they can do.
Or do you think the blue's will still fit?

Thanks!

[Aloha818]

OT: I wish I'd live in Hawaii.

My home is still Nashville, I came over here 5 years ago for a 9 month project. I keep accepting more projects.

When I see the crazy weather on TV it confirms my continued choices.

My wife and I out for dinner the other night, we can do this every night, btw.

image.jpeg

[STiPWRD]

Scargo, thanks for the reply and offer. The stock injectors are Denso 2970030

image.jpeg

The WRX injectors look a little different. I have an email out to five o motor sports to see what they can do.
Or do you think the blue's will still fit?

Thanks!

Those look identical to the blue top feed injectors Scargo is referring to. I had these in my 02 wrx but they r rated stock at 420cc, maybe in the later years they bumped it up to 565cc? I know that there are sti pink 565cc versions that people commonly swap in their wrx's. Either way the blue top feed injectors can be modded to higher flow rates but you'd have to research who still performs this service if you went that route. I had mine modded to 824cc but the company I used no longer does injector modding.

[longislandwrx]

Light blue top feeds were 420s, darks are 565


I paid 200 for my 1000mi dark blues (565cc), so anything less then that is a good deal. DW used to pay 50 each for them so they were worth 200 a set, now they pay 40 each so they go for $160

[Scargo]

Yes, those are top-feeds and the (dark) blues will fit. What I have came off my EJ257 STi motor @17K and it says they are 565cc. #0580822 and I have a set #0580826.
If there is an issue at all it would be to change out the plug, but I kinda doubt it, since they're both for Subarus. When you get into Injector Dynamics and others they give you a rewiring kit for the connection.

[Aloha818]

Thanks all for all your input.

As I mentioned earlier, I had sent a request to five o to see what they had that would be a direct replacement. Kirk there replied with a direct replacement and a flow rate of 550cc

image.jpeg

$365 including 2nd day air to Hawaii.

The Haltech boost controller I ordered should be in tomorrow. This weekend I should have everything installed and ready for the dyno. Should be interesting to see what you can get out of a stock 2.2 ltr, 9.5 compression, TD04, water to air intercooled, custom headers and exhaust, tuned engine.

Or maybe it'll just blow up!

[longislandwrx]

Well if you can get it to 17psi and not blow up you should be making good power. Can you get 93 octane in Hawaii?

[Scargo]

OMG. I think your engine may be an accident looking to happen with much boost. I was doing a little looking and I am assuming you have hypereutectic pistons. Please keep the boost down and octane up. Be sure and have this conversation with your tuner.

[Aloha818]

OMG. I think your engine may be an accident looking to happen with much boost. I was doing a little looking and I am assuming you have hypereutectic pistons. Please keep the boost down and octane up. Be sure and have this conversation with your tuner.

The maximum boost with premium fuel is 6-7lbs of boost on this engine. If I need more I can add methanol injection and run up to 10lbs.

The compression ratio is 9.5:1. So even though boost is limited I have the advantage of higher compression and 10% larger displacement than the typical WRX.

I'm anxious to see what the dyno shows.

[Scargo]

Perhaps I misunderstand. You have a EJ22 SOHC 2.2L from a 2000 Outback? Wikipedia says it should be an EJ251, a SOHC with 2.5L and 10:1 CR for that car.

[longislandwrx]

Well if you can get it to 17psi and not blow up you should be making good power. Can you get 93 octane in Hawaii?

OMG. I think your engine may be an accident looking to happen with much boost. I was doing a little looking and I am assuming you have hypereutectic pistons. Please keep the boost down and octane up. Be sure and have this conversation with your tuner.

My comment was meant to be tongue in cheek, I wouldn't set you BC to 17.

before the WRX hit the US SCC magazine (mostly Shiv Pathak of Vishnu) built a turbocharged 99 2.5rs, It went through various types of management, but they ended up with a tec-2, 9.7 CR and 10psi of boost and around 300bhp.
This was 14 years ago when Subaru tuning was in it's infancy. I think you will be in good shape with a conservative tune.

[Aloha818]

Thanks for researching and commenting. I should have mentioned it's an Impezza Outback, I guess they have Legacy Outbacks also.

My engine is the 2.2, SOHC, single port exhaust, 142 HP, 149 TQ as delivered. The early 2.0 WRX has 227 HP, 217 TQ.

I've added the same WRX TD04 turbo, custom equal length SS header/up pipe, no cat, flow through muffler and straight pipe out the rear panel. Fully tunable Haltech ECU, no emission requirements in Hawaii. I'm installing the new 550cc injectors and Haltech boost controller this weekend.

Since the only accessory is the alternator and I've installed just about every available modification without splitting the block, I'm hoping for 260-280 HP.

Since I am only running on my tuning ability (4hours self taught&#128556 and I know my stock injectors are too small, I keep one eye on the boost gauge and one on the O2 gauge and drive without going into boost.

This car is still crazy fast compared to other cars in traffic!

[Aloha818]

I received the new fuel injectors from "fiveo". Great service, shipped the same day as ordered, arrived right on time via two day fedex.

image.jpeg

I installed them yesterday, input all the new values into the Haltech program, and fired it up. I had to tweak the fuel map a little to get the O2 close (I still don't know quite what I'm doing). I was flicking the throttle, watching all the gauges and looking at points on the fuel map, when all of a sudden the engine shut down, all the fans came on (was not up to operating temp yet for them to come on yet), and the MAP screen gauge was flashing red and showing a high boost condition had occurred, 22 psi.

I pulled the main battery fuse and called it a night. See if it would reset overnight. Which it did.

Not sure what actually happened, but I guess I'll stop flicking the throttle!

Tomorrow I'll install the boost controller and put all the covers back on and take it for a spin.

Anyone with any experience setting up the ECU for a boost controller? I want to at least get it somewhat close before it goes to the tuner.

[Aloha818]

I have installed the new injectors and the Haltech boost controller. I ran by the dyno shop today to confirm a date for real tuning and time on the dyno. It must be nice to be the only game in town. Even though I bought all the parts from them the soonest they have a 4 hour window is March 18. I have to see if I can bribe the tech to come by my shop on his day off to get me close enough to drive it a little hard.

I joined the SCCA and I want to get in the next race to see what it's all about. They set up the race at the Aloha Stadium (same place as the Pro Bowl). I have 5 other work friends that race and they seem to be having a great time.

[Scargo]

... I joined the SCCA and I want to get in the next race to see what it's all about. ...

Nervous Nellie back again.
I am having trouble finding much about what you've done to the engine and what state it's in and especially the emission components area. At some point Subaru had to do a lot of emissions work and that stock system on the engine has been a source of many a broken ring-land when too many G's are exerted. If you know all this and have prepared for it then I will just shut up. It is well-discussed here in the forum.

[Aloha818]

Nervous Nellie back again.
I am having trouble finding much about what you've done to the engine and what state it's in and especially the emission components area. At some point Subaru had to do a lot of emissions work and that stock system on the engine has been a source of many a broken ring-land when too many G's are exerted. If you know all this and have prepared for it then I will just shut up. It is well-discussed here in the forum.

Scargo, thanks for being Nervous Nellie!

As I have only seen one race and that was here, I'm not sure how much damage you could do. I don't think you can ever get above 50-60 mph and it only lasts a few seconds.

Obviously, since I have never raced before, it will take some time before I personally can push the car hard and will understand if I need to change engines. That's if it's interesting enough for me to pursue.

My engine has zero emission equipment. That's part of the reason I went to the Haltech because the old ECU didn't like I had all the sensors eliminated. The ports on the top of my heads, that previously had tubing connected to the intake, now only have a small filtered breather. So no chance of oil getting sucked into the engine. I understand I might need to put a catch can if/when I learn to drive fast enough for oil to try and escape.

I really built the car for fun and show, so no real energy has gone into race/performance. But who knows, maybe I'll get bit by the racing bug and might be back building an engine.

Although I am in the beginning process of building a stroker, ITB, and electronic ignition/fuel injected M110 engine for my 1969 Mercedes 230.

[RM1SepEx]

Race= Autocross? Not a race but a timed driver skill event! Insurance verbiage 101 ;-)

[Aloha818]

Race= Autocross? Not a race but a timed driver skill event! Insurance verbiage 101 ;-)

Spent part of yesterday and today playing engine computer programmer. Takes a lot of reading, comparing and researching to get the engine running safe. Very little actual specific information available. I guess the ECU manufactures need to protect their distributors and programmers. Of course, with so many variables it would be difficult to provide enough info to keep people from blowing their engines up!

I have a date with the dyno on March 18, but I'm impatient and am trying to get it tuned good enough to enter the "Timed Driver Skill Event" this next Sunday. (Thanks RM1SepEx for the correct verbiage)

After a 12 mile run up the H1 (I know, hard to believe an island can have an Interstate) the engine ran great, AFR's stayed below 14.7 in boost, as low as 10.8. But I can't tame the boost. Wants to run up to 10psi before I know it. Wicked fun too!

I'll have to call my tech for some advice tomorrow.

I was so concerned about watching boost, fuel maps, AFR's, temps, etc while driving that I forgot all about the Auto trans until I parked it in the garage. Then thinking back, it did everything it was supposed to do, so it never caught my attention.
Pretty excited about that, as I haven't found one post on any forum that supported a 4EAT with an aftermarket ECU, little lone only using the front drive axles.

Does anyone monitor their air temp sensor for what is a typical above ambient temp? It was sunny and 77 degrees this afternoon on my highway run, in and out of boost and the ATS was 95 degrees. I have Water to air intercooler and fans on its radiator.

[RM1SepEx]

Add one of these for air to water: Mine is for AAIC http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...ilpage_o00_s00

[Wayne Presley]

After a 12 mile run up the H1 (I know, hard to believe an island can have an Interstate) the engine ran great, AFR's stayed below 14.7 in boost, as low as 10.8. But I can't tame the boost. Wants to run up to 10psi before I know it. Wicked fun too!

I'll have to call my tech for some advice tomorrow.

I was so concerned about watching boost, fuel maps, AFR's, temps, etc while driving that I forgot all about the Auto trans until I parked it in the garage. Then thinking back, it did everything it was supposed to do, so it never caught my attention.
Pretty excited about that, as I haven't found one post on any forum that supported a 4EAT with an aftermarket ECU, little lone only using the front drive axles.

Does anyone monitor their air temp sensor for what is a typical above ambient temp? It was sunny and 77 degrees this afternoon on my highway run, in and out of boost and the ATS was 95 degrees. I have Water to air intercooler and fans on its radiator.

You should move your MAT sensor to after the intercooler, it's a much more important location that the MAF meter's location for the ECU to know if it needs to pull out timing. And target your AFR to 13 above 80 kPa, 12.5 above 100 kPa and 11.5 above 120 kPa.

[Aloha818]

Add one of these for air to water: Mine is for AAIC http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...ilpage_o00_s00

Thanks for the link. But what would be a target rise in temperature, after the intercooler, when driving in and out of boost?

[Aloha818]

You should move your MAT sensor to after the intercooler, it's a much more important location that the MAF meter's location for the ECU to know if it needs to pull out timing. And target your AFR to 13 above 80 kPa, 12.5 above 100 kPa and 11.5 above 120 kPa.

Wayne, thanks for taking time to reply to my thread!

Since I know I don't know what I'm doing, and could make a mistake on any one of the many many entries on the programming, I'm earring on the far side of caution with the fuel map. Especially since this NA original engine, now with turbo, is already an accident waiting to happen!

Here is the location of my ATS.

image.jpeg

[Wayne Presley]

MAT you want as close to ambient as possible but since physics says you can't do that anything around 15-20°F above ambient is good. Overall keep it less than 135°F max.

[Wayne Presley]

Wayne, thanks for taking time to reply to my thread!

Since I know I don't know what I'm doing, and could make a mistake on any one of the many many entries on the programming, I'm earring on the far side of caution with the fuel map. Especially since this NA original engine, now with turbo, is already an accident waiting to happen!

Here is the location of my ATS.

image.jpeg

OK, you want to err on the side that is rich, 11.5 or lower. 14.7 is way too lean under boost

[Aloha818]

OK, you want to err on the side that is rich, 11.5 or lower. 14.7 is way too lean under boost

Sorry Wayne, I gave a poor example of my AFR's. At idle I was about 14.7, then down to 10 by the time I'm in positive pressure territory. Way rich I know.

Since this engine can only take 7 psi max (48kpa) 13 should be my low.

Safelite screwed me and pushed the install till today, so I couldn't pass tech to participate yesterday. I went ahead and had tech look the car over to make sure that would be my only issue, and it was. I had already registered so I did my track duties also. I have three friends that are all rookies too, it was fun watching, walking the track, and getting pointers from some of the more experienced participants.

Since this is only the second time I have been to a SCCA event I'm not sure if this is how they all are, but the cars ranged from a Prius to a new Covette tricked out with lots of goodies including a Supercharger. I'm going to be in the XP class (and rookie). Is this the tropical class?

image.jpeg

My tuner was at the event so I spent some time getting some more pointers. One of the cool features with the Haltech (probably others as well)is a tracer. You pick out a map, in this case the fuel map, and as you drive it traces a line through the cells your passing through. I spent 45 mins tonight playing around with it some, already pulled out 20% of the fuel from above 2500 rpm. Got it up to 12 under boost. Kinda fun playing around with this. Another couple hours and I should be able to clean up and smooth out the variables from cell to cell. Trying to get as close as I can before Dyno Day. Sorry for the crappy pic, too much sun and dusty screen.

image.jpeg

Almost forgot to mention, Sunday was the first day to actually have the car in an environment for car guys to see the 818. I think some of the guys were more disappointed than me that I couldn't run. I can imagine FFR got a few web hits yesterday, it was about 50/50 those that knew of the 818 and those that didn't. Overall I had only positive comments.

[RM1SepEx]

Should be in EM class, XP is wishful thinking for a tube frame kit car.

[Wayne Presley]

Sorry Wayne, I gave a poor example of my AFR's. At idle I was about 14.7, then down to 10 by the time I'm in positive pressure territory. Way rich I know.

Since this engine can only take 7 psi max (48kpa) 13 should be my low.

Even at 7 psi 13:1 is way too lean. 11.5 at anything above 120 kPa...

[Aloha818]

Should be in EM class, XP is wishful thinking for a tube frame kit car.

Thanks for the reply. XP is where they put me, they didn't ask for my input. Should I ask to be put in a different class?

[RM1SepEx]

http://cdn.growassets.net/user_files...pdf?1452294335

Around pg 137

From the 2016 Solo rules draft

18. MODIFIED CATEGORY
Sports cars and sedans altered in excess of Prepared Category, sports racing
and two-seat specials, Formula cars, single-seat specials, dune buggies,
and kit cars. Active Automatic Braking Systems (ABS) and Traction Control
Systems (TCS) are prohibited in Modified classes B (BM), C (CM), and F (FM).
Traction Control Systems are prohibited in Modified Class A (AM). Active Automatic
Braking Systems (ABS) and Traction Control Systems are prohibited
in Modified Classes D (DM) and E (EM),

draft c
2016 SCCA® National Solo® Rules — 137
18. Modified
d. Has no exceptionally high strength-to-weight ratio.
e. Has no other unique features that would upset the competitive balance
in DM and EM.
f. Has independently-verifiable evidence of at least 10 examples which
meet the approved specification produced. Extremely limited production
sports racer-type efforts are discouraged.
Constructed examples of approved kits are subject to the following:
a. They will automatically take the Modified Tub weight penalty (see
Appendix A).
b. They will have the same weight-displacement scales and weight bias
penalties as production-based cars.
c. They will be allowed all the modifications that production-based
cars are permitted.
d. They are subject to the same engine and transmission restrictions as
production-based cars.
e. They must meet the same safety requirements as production-based
cars.
A newly-added model is not eligible for the current year’s Solo® National
Championships unless its listing was published no later than the
July issue of the official SCCA® publication.
The list of currently approved models is as follows:
Factory Five Racing 818 (S & R)
2. Clones
Clones/replicas of SCCA®-recognized production cars are permitted to
compete in DM and EM provided they comply with the following requirements:
a. They are substantially similar to and recognizable as the original
manufactured vehicle on which they are based.
b. Their specifications do not violate any rule stated herein.
c. A clone shall not benefit from kit car manufacturer “running changes”
unless those changes have also been submitted and approved.
3. Other Models
The Panoz Roadster and Porsche 550 Spyder are eligible for competition
in DM and EM as a modified production-based car using the Modified
Tub minimum weights.
4. Specifications
Weight and displacement specifications are as shown in Appendix A.
B. Bodywork
1. Respecting Section 18.1.F: Aerodynamic Aids, bodywork may be modidra

Note, this is the same place that a Cobra is classed.

Bottom line, 818S & 818R are EM, no ABS or Traction control allowed

[nkw8181]

good to know! thanks Dan

[Aloha818]

Bottom line, 818S & 818R are EM, no ABS or Traction control allowed

Thanks for the reply and info. I have sent an email to the local SCCA and am waiting for a reply back.

The next and last event of this season is April 3.

Dyno tuning is this Friday, can't wait!

[Mitch Wright]

Good luck and have fun.

[Aloha818]

The reply back from the Hawaii SCCA is they are following the 2015 rules until the end of this season, which is April. So I will be in XP class for this one race. Then I will be moving into the EM class at the start of 2016 season this fall.

I bought a GoPro 4 Silver yesterday to get ready for the race. The video is pretty good but since the camera is encased in a waterproof case you can't hear much of the engine and just some clicking noises, I guess from the suction mount. So I ordered a remote mic and since I don't see any underwater filming in my near future I'll just cut a hole for the plug to fit through the case to the camera.

I do not have any experience with a GoPro, any advice? It is pretty cool that I can control it from my iPhone though.

[Aloha818]

Good luck and have fun.

Mitch, thanks for the encouragement. I hope I don't embarrass myself too much. In the two events I've been to, at least twice in each day I've seen drivers get "lost" around the cones. I think I will focus on just getting around the track properly rather that the time it takes to do so.

[walt555]

Awsome, the Lee''s pretty much run scca hawaii are great people. Knowing the track is key to a clean run. I used to walk it a couple of times and sketch it out on a note pad. My memory is great but only last a couple of minutes. Lol. Hopefully I can get back out there in a couple of years. My kits in the garage and I'm planning to build as designed with as few exceptions as possible.