Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread

[KauaiMK4]

Aloha818,

I live on Kauai, and just ordered a MK4 kit, and am interested in what company you are using to get your kit shipped over.

Good luck with your build!

[Aloha818]

KauaiMK4, I used Honolulu Freight.

They arranged the complete shipment from pick-up in MA @FFR to Honolulu. No issues other than FFR does not yet have a verified/standard weight for the 818, not sure about a MK4. Jay gave me an estimate of 1500-1600 lbs, which is what I gave to Honolulu Freight. However, FFR shipping dept. put 2500lbs on the bill of laden. Now Honolulu Freight wants additional money for the additional weight. So far Honolulu Freight has not provided me with me with certified scale receipt so the actual weight and/or if I have to pay extra is unresolved.

Good luck on your project! I'm having a great time picking new parts and upgrades, and of course building.

[Aloha818]

This weekend was the completion of one of the phases of the project I'm running here in Hawaii, no time for my Hula Girl this weekend!

I did sneak a few mins away and get the wheels and tires mated and a photo op!

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I'm really happy with my choices on the wheels and tires. I probably could have have gone with 225 f and 255 r but with the difference being less than 3/8" of an inch I probably won't have to worry about anything rubbing and should still fill the wheel wells. And with my other deviations this will be one less possible issue.

I really need to finish the panel riveting work! Looking forward to exhaust fab, fuel lines, and electrical work. Almost all my currently ordered parts have arrived, sitting waiting for me.

[Xusia]

I've got 2 questions for you:
1. Do you really think the 225s will work in the front and clear everything?
2. How is the fitment with the body panels? I'm particularly interested in whether or not the offset is good or needs adjustment.

[Aloha818]

I've got 2 questions for you:
1. Do you really think the 225s will work in the front and clear everything?
2. How is the fitment with the body panels? I'm particularly interested in whether or not the offset is good or needs adjustment.

Xusia, I haven't installed or test fit the body panels, or made a rough alignment. FFR and others have used the 225/f and 255/r sizes and I can only assume they have adjusted/ordered the backset to fit. The rears clear all the suspension by 1/2", and the fronts clear all the suspension easily (didn't measure).

My rims are 7" on the front and 8.75" on the rear so either size is within the tire manufacturers spec.

I chose to go on the smaller tire size just to have a little insurance. And I think the tire to wheel fit looks perfect, not stretched or bulged.

More observations to come as I build!

[metalmaker12]

Xusia, I haven't installed or test fit the body panels, or made a rough alignment. FFR and others have used the 225/f and 255/r sizes and I can only assume they have adjusted/ordered the backset to fit. The rears clear all the suspension by 1/2", and the fronts clear all the suspension easily (didn't measure).

My rims are 7" on the front and 8.75" on the rear so either size is within the tire manufacturers spec.

I chose to go on the smaller tire size just to have a little insurance. And I think the tire to wheel fit looks perfect, not stretched or bulged.

More observations to come as I build!

I have body fitment pics with my wheels, 17x8 215/40,f ans 18x9 255-35 r, I will post in coming days

[Aloha818]

What is everyone doing for a muffler? Cats? Will the factory EMS throw codes without a cat?

[metalmaker12]

What is everyone doing for a muffler? Cats? Will the factory EMS throw codes without a cat?

You don't need a cat, the ecu will work fine

[RM1SepEx]

I need a cat for a sticker... right now just the cat, not too loud, long term bellmouth, cat, muffler, tail pipe all 3"

[Xusia]

Xusia, I haven't installed or test fit the body panels, or made a rough alignment. FFR and others have used the 225/f and 255/r sizes and I can only assume they have adjusted/ordered the backset to fit. The rears clear all the suspension by 1/2", and the fronts clear all the suspension easily (didn't measure).

My rims are 7" on the front and 8.75" on the rear so either size is within the tire manufacturers spec.

I chose to go on the smaller tire size just to have a little insurance. And I think the tire to wheel fit looks perfect, not stretched or bulged.

More observations to come as I build!

Your front is ET+35, and the rear is ET+33, correct?

I have body fitment pics with my wheels, 17x8 215/40,f ans 18x9 255-35 r, I will post in coming days

Thanks, I appreciate that, but there is really no need. Aloha818 has both the exact wheels and tires I want. It's important because of the odd sizes/ET of the wheels, and because the Federal RS-R is actually wider than indicated. This combines to make comparisons to other setups not very helpful. But again, I appreciate the offer!

[wallace18]

What is everyone doing for a muffler? Cats? Will the factory EMS throw codes without a cat?

I am going to use an Vortex cone from Summit that will fit in my 3" pipe. Part # DTC-772-32520

[Aloha818]

Your front is ET+35, and the rear is ET+33, correct?



Thanks, I appreciate that, but there is really no need. Aloha818 has both the exact wheels and tires I want. It's important because of the odd sizes/ET of the wheels, and because the Federal RS-R is actually wider than indicated. This combines to make comparisons to other setups not very helpful. But again, I appreciate the offer!

Both front and rear were ordered as +35, I have not measured them.

Part of the reason I went with the smaller width was from reading about how the RS-R's run wide. But some of the reviews were conflicting, based on different widths, so I erred on smaller size.

Part of my decision was that others had said its best to keep a 30 difference between front and rear, and since no power steering, a 215 width might help a little with parking! 90% of the time this 818 will be parked in a parking garage somewhere.

[Aloha818]

I am going to use an Vortex cone from Summit that will fit in my 3" pipe. Part # DTC-772-32520

Thanks for the reply!

I am unfamiliar with this, I looked up the part number @Summit. I understand that a turbo kills some sound, what is the sound effect with the cone?

[Aloha818]

I've been putting off installing the interior panels, one because I'm still designing/ordering parts to add a turbo to this EJ22, so fuel lines, mounting, exhaust, and water/oil supply lines, two because it is my least favorite task.

So almost all the oil/fuel/water line parts have been ordered, so I was out of excuses and started back on the panels. The belly pan under the seats about killed me! I have tried to keep the rivet spacing at 3" as much as possible on all the aluminum, including the belly pan which is about 80 rivets. This has been the hardest physical work so far on my build!

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So now I have a good idea on the final interior dimensions. I need to decide on seats, but needed the opening size. Fo those interested, it is 20 3/4" between the side aluminum panel and the console aluminum panel, the aluminum console panel is 5 1/2" wide, and the distance from the face of the rear aluminum panel to the inside of the angled crossbar at the seat front is 22"

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I can see why some have opted to remove the angle steel brace in front of the seats. I am reluctant to remove mine yet, until there is more data. Convertibles already tend to have more body flex than sedans due to the strength added by the roof, I have to think this brace helps with that.

I'm 5'8" so I should have enough legroom with the standard tank, but worried I might need to move closer and the bar will be in the way.

Makes seat shopping even more challenging!

[RM1SepEx]

at 5'8" you won't need the seat closer. I removed my brace for my wife who is petite... only 5'1" tall

[handyjimdandy]

Just ordered 818s kit. I'm a year out for delivery. Will looking for a better deal on shipping, I hope! Need to find a 2006 wrx on Big Island, Again I hope! Glad to see another Hawaiin building one.

[Aloha818]

Congrats on the order! Let me know if your ever in Honolulu and you can come by and see what you ordered.

[Aloha818]

I'm at that stage of the build where it takes hours to get small items done, and pics don't seem to capture the effort.

Still working on fabbing up the brackets to hold the turbo, on my 4th adjustment. Piecing together the oil supply/return, water supply/return, silicone intake system and the whole fuel supply system.

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I'm in the process of moving the turbo over to the passenger side about 2" and then it will line up with the output of the turbo. The elbow out of the turbo transitions to 3" and then the path remains 3" through the intercooler until the transition coupling at the throttle body.

Ordered an AEM universal fuel pressure regulator, it has provisions for -6AN line size Im using, when it arrives this week I will be done with the fuel system.

Mounted the charcoal canister (from a Miata) on the DS frame @coilover.

Ordered/installed a smaller aluminum reservoir that is in the path of the coolant supply to the turbo and mounted high so I hope it will help burp the system. I am using the two ports that previously supplied heat to the throttle body for the turbo coolant connections. The plastic overflow container next to it will perform its intended function, also ordered one for the front radiator overflow. ($9.98 delivered)

For oil supply I installed an adapter into the oil gallery next to the crankcase vent, then tapped the oil pan for the return.

A handful of items arriving this week should finish this stage.

Started laying out the wiring, next challenge.

I will be working the exhaust in between the electrical as I have a friend that is going to do the pretty stainless welding for me. As this engine has single port heads and no equal length headers available (especially to a turbo) the entire exhaust system will be custom. I ordered a 3" round Borla XR-1 racing muffler going straight out the rear with a nice stainless tip.

Great to see more builders posting about their builds! Eventually the perfect 818 will be built as a result of all the collective contributions!

[wallace18]

Looking good! You are doing some nice work.

[Wayne Presley]

Very nice work!

[riptide motorsport]

Love the hula girl!!!

[Aloha818]

Looking good! You are doing some nice work.

Very nice work!

Thanks, the compliments coming from you guys means a lot!

I fight myself everyday to keep moving forward one system at a time. My personality is that I have a hard time finishing loose ends if I leave them. So I force myself to complete each task so I don't end up with 100 loose ends to finish.

After I finished moving the turbo location for the 4th time, I indulged myself and stuck the passenger body side and the rear wheel/tire on (no fasteners) for inspiration!

It worked! Inspired for at least another week.

[Aloha818]

Love the hula girl!!!

Thanks, she is always ready for a couple quick pics, never complains that I spend time on the 818, even watches my progress without making any negative comments!

[Aloha818]

Has anyone thought about cutting the shaft off a little, maybe 1 1/2". It would close the gap up a little between the column cover trim and the dash, maybe make it a little easier to get in and out?

Looks like there is room at the end of the shaft.

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Anyone that has go carted, would you think moving it forward would be a benefit?

[Aloha818]

I finished moving the turbo over to the passenger side about 2". Now it lines up with the intercooler.

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Since I need to see what space is available for the wiring and placement of fuse blocks, EMS, A/T controller, etc, I tacked up both side sails and the rear bumper. So far my auto trans modification fits within the body;

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So after spending about an hour staring at the mass of wire;

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I dug in and started labeling the connectors. On my last project I bought a label maker. In prep for the wiring I printed out the entire wiring schematics for my model/year.

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After spending some time labeling and getting a feel for the design of the factory harness I started measuring distances, space available, and what best would fit where. I try in my projects, not always attained, to make the final result as close to what would seem like it came from the factory that way.

I am comfortable cutting, soldering, shrink wrapping, and modifying the harness as needed to fit, especially with a full set of schematics. So to minimize the amount of cutting the wire that stays, and to place components in logical locations, the EMS will be in the space above the fuel tank behind the passenger seat, I made a bracket to hold the fuse block and mounted up high on the firewall inside above the passenger footwell (the wire coming out from behind the block will be routed up then down through the tunnel to be out of the way), and then the power distribution panel under the hood just in front of the windshield.

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I have only spent the day working on this so far, but it looks like most of the wires I need to keep will either fit or need to be shortened. So far only the alternator wires need lengthened, I'm sure there will some more. I can see me spending a good week or so on the wiring stage since I will be be basically building a complete harness.

[Aloha818]

Got to spend a full day in my little shop, un-interrupted, while everyone else is out shopping.

The BOV and hose adapter arrived so I was able to button that up and check clearances;

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There is about an inch and a half from the top of the BOV to the deck lid.

I put the air filter out close to the body side, basically 90 degree turn out from the turbo, so that it can pick up the fresh air coming through the body side vent. Since my final turbo mount location is a little more rearward (about 2") I did not go under the intake manifold before the 90 degree turn. This will help to pick up fresh air but cut into the space for the muffler. The Borla I picked up has a 15" body, going to be tight.

Made some decent progress on the wiring. Mounted the ECU in the space behind the passenger seat, above the fuel tank. I had already installed the engine harness, but pulled it back out to rework the loom to move the two large connectors to be pointing forward, as opposed to pointing rearward. This gave enough slack that I did not have to cut or splice any wires coming from the ECU. I also split the loom and separated the wiring going to the O2 sensors and it looks like that will also now reach. The wire loom with the two large connectors for the auto trans will have to be lengthened by a good 3 feet.

So time wise I have a little less than 2 days in so far. The main power block, fuse panel, ECU, engine harness, front lights, horn, turn signals, battery (in FFR supplied location), and alternator wiring is mounted/sorted out. I haven't terminated any of the front wiring yet, just run to the close location until body panels are installed.

So now that I have all the major termination points complete and the main cables terminated I can continue to "diet" the unneeded circuits and work on the dash and under dash components. All my front to back wiring runs through the tunnel, for me simpler to keep together and the shortest route.

Some looms require a complete tear down. For example, in the same factory loom is the brake fluid sensor and the starter, once inches apart, now at opposite ends.

I think I have dishpan hands, I cut on the looms, wash my hands to get all the sticky/oily/tape residue off, look through the schematics, print/install labels, route/modify looms, repeat.

I was called for dinner so I didn't take any day end pics.

My back ordered headlights arrived from FFR today, FYI. I think other than the door panels I have everything.

I'm thinking about picking up the Zeitronix ZR-2+ZT-2 multi-guages. One guage that you can toggle through, might look simpler. Anyone with any experience or other preference?

[metalmaker12]

Nice work, looks awesome!

[Aloha818]

Nice work, looks awesome!

Thanks, I'm having fun picking parts and figuring out proper placement for everything.

The wiring rework is getting tiresome though! So much time, but looks like you haven't done anything.

But some deliveries perked up my day;

Head unit
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Speakers
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Seats
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It looks like the best place for the mid-woofer is in each side kick panel, the tweeters will go in each door. The head unit is pretty cool, will play FLAC files and Pandora through my iPhone, no CD, so it is only like 4" deep and weighs nothing. After I finish the car I will evaluate the addition of an amp and subs. But since the head unit, tweeter, and mid-woofer will be visible and affect finishes, I'm putting in now.

The custom shifter cable for my auto trans was done so I picked that up (no pic yet)

And I dropped off an exhaust flange gasket at a local metal shop to get a couple stainless header flanges water jetted. I couldn't find any available for my single port heads to make the exhaust out of. They are also doing some custom work for the project I'm on, so only $50 each.

[GUNS]

Looking great, you are moving right along!

[Mechie3]

The wiring rework is getting tiresome though! So much time, but looks like you haven't done anything.

That's the worst part. "I was just here for 4 hours, and what exactly did I do? I'm not sure, because everything still looks the same".

[b1doby]

I must force myself daily to finish projects. Loose ends for me become problems never finished.

I take great joy scratching things off my to do list.

Thank you for such a great job sharing your build with me.

[Aloha818]

I must force myself daily to finish projects. Loose ends for me become problems never finished.

I take great joy scratching things off my to do list.

Thank you for such a great job sharing your build with me.

Your welcome on the sharing! For me taking the time to take pictures and post is part giving back, park record keeping, part being a part of the community, and part ego.

I am really pushing myself to complete the wiring, and I am the same way, if I don't finish as I go I'll have too many loose ends.

For me the wiring is not hard work, or a mental challenge, but boring and tedious! I've been on this for 3 weeks and just now seeing daylight. I have to admit though that I am basically building a new harness. I have mounted the main power fuse box in the front with the battery in the FFR location, the fuse box under the passenger dash, the trans and engine ecu's over the fuel tank, and all the relays will be under the dash. My plan was to build as what the factory might have done. So it has taken considerable time to purge unneeded wires, lengthen wires and shorten wires. All my joints are soldered and covered with shrink wrap.

I have also had a few interruptions with the holidays and parties (sorry, don't have cold weather to blame!)

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And then one of my friends just picked up a new (to him) Ferrari 599

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I think in another 3-4 hours I will finally be ready to start on the exhaust!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job on the wiring. You are the first one that I've seen (oem ECU) that has a reasonable amount of wiring in the tunnel.
Bob

[longislandwrx]

Nice work, and a picture of one of, if not my favorite Ferraris.

[Aloha818]

Nice work, and a picture of one of, if not my favorite Ferraris.

Thanks, hope you and everyone has had a great Christmas!

I'm running back to the mainland the first week or so of January, but when I get back I will get a chance to drive the 599. It's a 2007, all options, the exhaust add was more than a finished 818.

[Aloha818]

Now that I finally "completed" the wiring, I jumped into the exhaust. I still have to button up the runs to the lights and under dash when the body/lights goes in. I need to complete the fabrication of the exhaust and some other mods I'm doing before I put gas in the tank and the engine started, no reason to hurry and weld with gas around, but I was able to power everything up, crank the engine, and verify the fuel pump kick on.

My engine is a 2000 EJ22, single port heads, non-turbo, but I'm adding one. So all exhaust work has to be fabricated. So I bought 1 5/8" SS pre-bent shapes to run from each head, the 2" SS pre-bent shaped to run to the turbo. From output of the turbo I bought a downpipe elbow, 3" SS pipe, Magnaflow SS muffler and a SS tip, exhaust through the rear vent.

To make it easier I laid one of the FFR sheet aluminum panels under the engine and used a plumb laser to mark the exhaust openings, frame rails, oil filter, oil pan, etc so I could fab on the table instead of under the car;
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Here is everything fitted up to the turbo flange, ready for my friend to weld up. I used some gorilla tape to hold everything together to show the shape;
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Then I shortened up the downpipe elbow I bought for a straighter path, (did not not use any of the FFR supplied exhaust parts, FYI) cut an angle on a piece of the 3" SS pipe, cut a temp hole in the rear bumper (will use hole for support while I fab a bracket, then cut out the rest of the area for the FFR supplied screen) and slipped in the SS tip;
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[Aloha818]

Now that I have seats (not installed yet), stereo head unit, extra guages ordered (one came in), I started trying to come up with a plan for the dash and center console.

My list of items to fit in are,

1) head unit
2) air/fuel guage
3) boost pressure guage
4) dual EGT guage
5) fuel pressure guage
6) oil pressure guage
7) Lokar emergency brake handle
8) auto gear selector
9) cup holder (most important)
10) 12v power port

At this point I have cut out the steel face that will hold the head unit and the guages and measured out the fitment for everything else. The gear selector will go in the tunnel to the front, then the cup holder, then the E-brake handle. I think I am going to put the 12v power port in the vertical 1/4" alum panel just above the E-brake handle between the seats, then the power cord won't be cluttering up the front;
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To be a little different I'm using guages from a company called Westach. Their main customer is aircraft, but the prices are reasonable and I like the look.

The steering wheel location (to far rearward) and the gap between the cover and the dash bugs me. My next mod will be to shorten the steering u-joint and shorten the shaft going into the u-joint about 1 1/2"-2". I will also have to modify the mounting point under the dash, we will see how this works out;
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After a long day I dropped on the trunk lids and placed the seats for some inspiration;
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I played a little with the height, feels about right with 2" between the bottom of the seat and the top of the steel frame. The slider is 1" thick, so should be reasonable to fab up some brackets.

[07FIREBLADE]

Looking good. How much room is there from the bottom of the awic to the top of the tranny?

[Xusia]

Which NRG seats are those?

[Aloha818]

Looking good. How much room is there from the bottom of the awic to the top of the tranny?

Thanks,

On my setup, auto trans, there is about 4 1/2" between;
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I set the bottom of the awic so that there is 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the air inlet/outlet and the top of the frame crossover. Let me know if this answers your question.