John's EZ36R H6 818R Build

[Hobby Racer]

Before you have the same kind of memory issues I have...Can you write up a summation of the main issues and solutions from your journey with the EZ36?

Here are my high level impressions of racing an EZ36 engine for a few years.

• In stock form they can be very reliable (see next bullet point).
• As is the case with most passenger car engines, higher G forces cause oiling issues that must be addressed.
• The lack of aftermarket support makes modifying them very expensive as parts are almost always a custom one off.
• There are not many mechanics / tuners that are proficient at working on the H6. So if you are not doing your own work, plan accordingly.

Were I to do it again, I think a better option would be the second generation EZ30R H6 for racing. The shorter stroke, stronger crank and stronger rods combined with a higher rev limit make a better starting point for a race engine. While aftermarket parts are still hard to come by, they are more available than the EZ36. Packaging is also easier with the EZ30R as it can fit into the 818 chassis without frame modifications (not counting custom motor mounts).

Bottom line, keep the power levels modest, say ~300 hp and things should be fine for a long time.

I'm particularly interested in what you think the best oiling solution is, and any other issues that should be addressed in a race car EZ36 build.
I'm thinking a NA build, no need (for me) to address a forced induction build.

The "Best Oiling Solution" is a bit subjective, but for me a solution that maintains a constant oil pressure at all RPM's and G loads during a race is good enough. It may not be the best, but it does what is required. For me that was the stock wet sump system with a custom swing arm oil pickup. It maintained the low profile of the engine (not protruding through the rear diffusor) and was simple and cost effective.

If using an EZ36 for racing, a basic tear down and rebuild should be done as these motors tend to be neglected in their daily life as commuter cars. In particular, pay close attention to the cam chain tensioning system and ensure all the oil restrictors in the tensioners are in place (three of mine loosened up and fell out)!

What do you think a reliable NA RWHP/TQ goal is?
BTW, for others in the H6 world, there's an interesting Facebook group: Six Swapped Subarus. https://www.facebook.com/groups/416248955247757
It's private group but I can invite you once we are friends.
Thanks,
Gator

With a free flowing exhaust and decent tune, a NA EZ36 should put down ~240 RWHP @ 6,000 RPM. The EZ36 will have more low end torque than an EZ30R but they will have equivalent peak HP ratings due to the EZ30R reving higher.