Brandon's 818R Build

[jforand]

I too left my OEM overflow up front in the stock location. We basically have two major high points in the car, assuming your front to rear transfer tubes run toward the bottom of the frame. The top of the radiator is a good two feet above my transfer tubes and the top of the engine is again a good 2 plus feet. I opted for a 16lb cap on the radiator and a 20lc cap on the pressurized reservoir on top of the engine. I get good circulation and any major air bubble up front vent first to the overflow. In theory, the pressurized reservoir cap should never unseat and vent. After filling and purging the system I just check the level in the overflow and adjust as necessary (it raises and lowers as one would expect with thermal expansion) and the rear cap I top off as air makes it up there and the level drops. I don't have the most mileage on the setup, but do have an entire day at VIR's track on it without any cooling issues.

On a side note, I ditched every bit of that corrugated flexible metal tube FFR provides. Getting the air out of that stuff is essentially impossible. Every corrugation holds a large bubble times a billion corrugations. Overtime it will come out I suppose, but I do not have the patience for that. They are hard to seal as well. I found some long rubber tubes for like $9 bucks at Rock Auto and cutting sections out of them with the proper bends and lengths was surprisingly easy. Different portions of one part number basically handled all four corners, think I only have 1 or maybe two couplers up front for the long intersing journey from the foot wells to the and bottom of the radiator.. Could dig up the part number if anyone is interested.

[idf]

Similar experience with front overflow and no problems as far as I know. Also have "Wayne's mod".

I have Boig's coolant tubes and have been happy with them.

[blomb11]

On a side note, I ditched every bit of that corrugated flexible metal tube FFR provides. Getting the air out of that stuff is essentially impossible. Every corrugation holds a large bubble times a billion corrugations. Overtime it will come out I suppose, but I do not have the patience for that. They are hard to seal as well. I found some long rubber tubes for like $9 bucks at Rock Auto and cutting sections out of them with the proper bends and lengths was surprisingly easy. Different portions of one part number basically handled all four corners, think I only have 1 or maybe two couplers up front for the long intersing journey from the foot wells to the and bottom of the radiator.. Could dig up the part number if anyone is interested.

Can you share the part number(s)? I just installed the corrugated tubes on the water pump and the coolant cross over pipe. I am not sure I have the budget for the Boig tubes but longer rubber hoses I could swing. I was thinking the corrugated tubes may cause some issue, but then others use them.

Not sure what I am going to do at the end with all of the left over unused FFR parts stacking up

[jforand]

Can you share the part number(s)? I just installed the corrugated tubes on the water pump and the coolant cross over pipe. I am not sure I have the budget for the Boig tubes but longer rubber hoses I could swing. I was thinking the corrugated tubes may cause some issue, but then others use them.

Not sure what I am going to do at the end with all of the left over unused FFR parts stacking up

Sure.

I will start off by saying that I don't mean to hi-jack a thread, just want to help fellow builders. Also, that I apparently lied about the cost. I think it really works if you keep telling yourself that you aren't spending that much What I can say is that I started out by selecting off the wall of hoses at autoparts stores and they charge a fortune. I looked them up at Rockauto and they were like 1/4 the cost.

Gates 24174 Radiator Upper Hose $15.18 Ordered 4
Gates 23605 Raditator Upper Hose $30.79 Ordered 1 of those.

I was able to get a single hose section to come from the side tube on the car to come around the corner, up and over the filler gas tube, and onto the water pump with all the right bends and kinks. I was also able to find the right section to do the same on the discharge at the top of the engine to the other side pipe. Up front on the passenger side that goes to the top of the radiator (basically the stock Subi radiator geometry) I came off the side of the car and shorterted through the corner as FFR suggest and pocket out into the 'battery compartment area' at the correct angle. I used the straight aluminum connector here and the other (I think the part number I order 4 of) went all the way tot he top of the radiator. On the driver's side I came from the side, short cut the corner again and came out at the correct angle again. This one needed a very tight bend to get up and over the frame and then back down to the radiator. I included a couple picks below that show the front. End result was nice smooth plumbing for the entire loop and it was WAY cheaper than those prefab tubes. I believe I talked with them and they wanted a LOT of money and were not interested in any negotiation.

Also ordered from Speedway Motors

Straight Aluminum Hose Connectors, 6 Inch Length P/N 9171763 $13.99 Qty 2
Aluminum 135 Degree Radiator Hose Connectors P/N # 9171005 $22.99 Qty1

IMG_6594.jpg IMG_6593.jpg IMG_6608.jpg IMG_6600.jpg IMG_6599.jpg

Hope it helps someone. For what it is worth, I do not currently have the Wayne cooling mod (tap in the crossover tube) installed. Incidentally, I do have a body installed now. I am surprised at the difficulty in getting air out of the engine and I am sure the mod makes that easier, but with a bit of patience I was fine. I actually let a lot of air out of the hose to crossover connection where that mod goes so it makes sense. I was just nervous about tapping that tube, I know of bunch of you guys are running it successfully.