Steve’s 289 Build

[SteveWorth]

So my 289 kit has arrived. Ordered Jan ‘22 and delivered Feb 25th, 2023.

My goal is to build something resembling a 1964 Slab Side car with a USRRC body!
In order to do this I am planning Smiths instruments with a mechanical speedo and a 289 street dash from ACE.
Paint will be a single color probably in the silver/blue.

Kit options
Powder coat
15” Halibrands
Rear brakes
Instrument delete
Blank dash

Planned additions
Russ Thomson - Gas peddle, Turn signals, Dropped Trunk
Instruments - Smiths

Engine - probably Blueprint 302 ~ 360HP
Transmission - Modern Driveline T5Z with forward shift

A couple of pictures from delivery day
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[GoDadGo]

Congratulations & Welcome To The Family!

[FredG]

Welcome from North Carolina!
We odd ones need to stick together.
I just finished inventory and removing the body.
Hop to it!

[John289]

Congratulations and welcome!

[cnutting]

Once upon a time, 289s were rare. Happy to see more builds in progress, congrats!

[Chainsaw]

Welcome to the family.

[SteveWorth]

Slow progress on my build. POL list is fairly short but 2 key items are missing - rivets and IRS fasteners.
Still undecided how to finish aluminum panels. Have Sharkhide on hand but may want to go black powder coat.
Passenger side panels fit together very well but as others have seen the drivers side footbox where it meets the center A panel needs some bending to make it fit well. Harbor Freight tools needed!
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[2FAST4U]

Having built a 289 FIA car, I think brushed aluminum looks the best and original. I used 320 wet and used water. Sanded in one direction only.

Bill D

[SteveWorth]

Thanks Bill!

[FredG]

Having built a 289 FIA car, I think brushed aluminum looks the best and original. I used 320 wet and used water. Sanded in one direction only.

Bill D

HI Bill!
Just getting into my build and was curious about panel finish myself and thought brushed aluminum is what I wanted. Did you put a finish like clearcoat on it afterwards? I had not planned to.
Honestly I want my car to look like it has some wear on it.
Also .. got any pictures by anychance?
Thanks,
Fred

[cnutting]

I did the brushed aluminum as well. No finish afterwards. It looks like a working car which is what I wanted.

[Namrups]

I used 220 grit sandpaper and an orbital sander to "scuff" my aluminum. Then coated it with Sharkhide.

[Zach Bohn]

Congratulations and welcome to the 289 club!

[2FAST4U]

No clear coat. The goal was to allow the aluminum to age like an original

[FredG]

No clear coat. The goal was to allow the aluminum to age like an original

That is my goal as well. Thanks!
... and good luck this coming week. Peacful thoughts from North Carolina.

[FredG]

I used 220 grit sandpaper and an orbital sander to "scuff" my aluminum. Then coated it with Sharkhide.

It looks great!!

[SteveWorth]

So I have been making steady progress on my build. All suspension completed. Fuel system and brake systems plumbed. Spent a lot of time on the parking brake and ended up getting new cables and hardware from Amazon because it had individual adjusters for the cables.
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Installed the drop trunk from Russ Thompson (RIP).
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Starting work on the wiring and I need to make a final engine selection!
Really enjoying the process of building and all of the help and ideas from the forum

[SteveWorth]

Working through the wiring. Decided to replace the plastic corregated cover with Flex mesh as I like the look.
Added connectors for front and rear lights/turn signals and tested all circuits. I did find one wire mislabeled on the steering column connector (green wire labeled as radiator fan instead of a turn signal). Used a bench power supply to power the system so I could current limit the supply in case of issues.
Footwell lights installed and functional from light switch.
Russ Thomson turn signal operational and wired to use stalk button for the horn.
A few pictures of the build
Dash wiring
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Brake clutch reservoirs
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Brakes have been successfully bled after replacing front cross brake pipe due to a poorly formed flare.

Trunk aluminum in place. The wire in the upper trunk area will provide USB charging power and a trunk light.
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Steve

[SteveWorth]

Project continues to move forward.
Received my dashboard from Nick Acton and installed Smiths instruments.
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Decided on a Blueprint 302 “Cruiser”. Still a lot of HP for what is to be a cruiser!!
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Adding a Holley Sniper 2.

Transmission is a TKX with a forward shift kit and hydraulic throwout bearing.
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Installed rear cubby kit from Breeze.
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This a great project!!

[SteveWorth]

Finally got the engine in the weekend with help form my two sons. First time they were able to assist since one is in Atlanta and one in Boise!
Install went very smoothly then it took the better part of a day to connect everything up.
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Then it was on to trying to start.
Pressurized the fuel system - no leaks! That was a win! Used Evil Energy AN6 fittings and tube without issue.
When we cranked it the first time it was obvious from the spit back through the Sniper 2 that the timing was off.
Pulled the valve cover off and check for TDC compression stroke and sure enough we were 180 deg off.
Reset the distributor and put the valve cover back on.
Cranked again and the engine fired right up!
Have to say I am very impressed with the way the Sniper 2 system operates. Need to check timing with the timing light and get the Forte throttle linkage set up.

Overall a very successful weekend.
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First start video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/tTgm6hbzK...shLxldVcg0IgCv

[SteveWorth]

Car is on the ground for the first time! Wow those sidepipes are low!!
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Adjusted the timing by a few degrees using my trusty timing light that I must have had for 40 years or so. Still works fine. I was off by maybe 5 degrees and what a difference that made to the idle. Still very impressed with how well the Sniper 2 is performing - starts right up every time. I'm being a little considerate of the neighbors as to when I start the car as it is so loud with the stock pipes.
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Should be ready for a first drive tomorrow!

[SteveWorth]

Successful first drive today! Just a short hop to the end of the street!
Seems pretty good!
https://youtu.be/GyTTglNmNw8?si=-tUvFWqvCkr--VMw

https://youtu.be/VWQEG2coap4?si=CP8rkYchXg_81e0o

The neighbors hand waving was excitement rather than “what’s all this racket”!!

[Grubester]

I'll start a 289 USSRC-style build in a couple of weeks when it arrives in Junction City, OR.
I'm curious what you used to protect the Al after creating the brushed look.
Was the brushed finish used in all areas where the Al shows?

[SteveWorth]

I used Sharkhyde on all areas where the aluminum shows. Trying to go for the old car look!

[SteveWorth]

Progress continues on the build.
Have had the body on and off a number of times. Its definitely a challenge getting the rear trimmed around the gas tank and also trimming the dash cowl return and the rear deck return behind the seats.
I have found this quite stressful as up to this point in the build any errors can pretty much be corrected by buying a replacement part but trimming the fiberglass is a whole different game!!
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Ran the engine for a while and am pretty happy with the way its running - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R00GxgJ26hE

Steve

[rkl20678]

Awesome post Steve as I am just starting my 289 build. You answered a number of questions I had already posed to my build direction. One question unanswered is what tires fit the 15” wheels? Not much out there but it looks like you figured it out. What did you end up selecting?

[Jphoenix]

I’m using 15” pin drive Trigos, went with 245/60/15 and 275/60/15 based on Erik Treves’ build thread. Erik has Hoosiers, I bought bf Goodrich radial TAs.

[SteveWorth]

Thanks!
Tires are as recommended on the Factory Five Parts/Wheels page. Cooper Cobra’s 235/60 15 on the front and 295/50 15 on the rear. They do fill out the wheel wells very nicely!

[rkl20678]

Thank you Steve, I had written down in my notes that FFR recommended 275/50 R15 for the rear but cannot find what I was reading when I put that in my notes. Just double checking before I order the tires…

[FRM]

Steve, I'm impressed you have had the body on and off several times. For me it was such a battle I put it on, removed it and put it on again........lots of grunting, swearing, pushing, shoving, sweating.......so I left it on. I'm going to try to title/register mine this fall........just in time for winter.........doh! Maryland winters aren't usually that bad. Fingers crossed for this year's.

Your build looks great.

[ggunter]

Installing and removing the body can be a pain especially if you are a one man band. I picked up some 1 1/2" electrical conduit at Home Depot and heated it with a heat gun and bent it as shown. Drill holes in each piece that correspond with your hinges and zip tie the pipes to your hinges. As you lower the body down the pipes open the body and lets it slide over the sides and lower frame. I have to thank someone on the forum for this idea, I didn't think of it but it works very well. Makes it easy peasy to put the body on and off. body install.PNGbody install1.PNG

[FRM]

clever, I like that work around......thanks. I found the 289 body was particularly troublesome around the rear trunk side aluminum and rear most flat panel. So you're in MD. I assume you registered your Cobra there? I'm about to try that myself. Any suggestions? Sounds like all registration roads go through Glen Burnie.

[Zots]

I put my 289 under my 4-post lift, strapped the 289 body to the lift and just lifted it off the frame...easy!

[SteveWorth]

Working on getting ready for paint, talked to Ken Pike and plan to get the car to him in July.
Lots of time has been spent doing the rough door, hood and fitting along with the installation of hinges and lights.
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As I do not have a heater I am installing heated seats from Mike Forte. After much thought I decided to install the switches on the Breeze seat mounts so they would not be visible and it works well screw the control relay to the mount as well.
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