Rebostar MK4 Build in Gaston Oregon

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I bled the brakes today. Made much easier with the "power" bleeder. Basicly a pump up weed sprayer with fittings and seals for DOT 3. Made it a one man job. Took about an hour. I also fabed up a starter solinoid mount bracket. It wont get installed untill its painted. That wont happen till I paint the last of the trunk sheetmetal.

One house keeping note:
I started to build up my engine but came to a screaming halt when Scat took 10 weeks to deliver my stroker kit, then another 3 to get me the damper I ordered. I am now at a good stopping point. The wiring is the next step in the manual but I'll be designing my own system based on a 12 vt Cessna or Piper electrical system. So I'll be taking the next several days to a week to build the engine. I'll try to post a few times as it goes together.

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Sure glad I bought that cam bearing removal and installation tool from Summit. Clevite Cam Bearings installed! Next up was the cam and crankshaft. Last year I got the Trick Flow Degree Wheel. Comp Cam does a great job, the cam was spot on to the card. I had to file all the #1 & #2 rings to .015 a job made much easier with the ring dressing wheel that Summit sells. Next was installing the #1 piston and rod. I put a dab of "playdough" on each valve relief on the #1 Piston. I have a set of Head Gaskets I use for stet up, with one installed I installed the right Edlebrock Head. After installing two lifters and old 351 pushrods and rotated the crank/cam a few turns. Used my adjustable pushrod tool to center the rocker tips and got new Chrome Moly pushrods ordered. The playdough showed I had .175 clearance between the piston and valves. Next up will be installing the remaining 7 piston/rod assemblies, heads and oil pump and pick up.

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Well, I managed to get all 8 piston/rod assemblies installed without breaking a ring. Once you break one and you have to tell the customer why he cant have his airplane for another few days because you had to order another set of rings, You learn to take your time. I installed the Melling Oil Pump and hardened ARP oil pump drive shaft. I took Jeff K's advice on installing the Moroso 20534 rear sump pan with pick up and dip stick. It has a 7.5" deep pan that wont hang below the frame. Then I permanently installed both Edlebrock E-205 Heads.

I forgot to post the cam card on the previous post, so here it is.

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The bottom end is done. I went through all the rod and main bolts, oil pump & pick up and double checked all the torques. Before I mounted the pan I needed to mount the timing cover. When doing that it is essencial to install it loosly with sealent on both sides of the gasket, then install the damper to get the front seal centered before torquing anything. Before all that I fitted all the bolts for size and made a trip to Ace to get all the Stainless Steel bolts I'd need.Then I installed the water pump and only then did I torque the bolts. Theoreticly (sic) the water pump should not leak water and the front seal will not leak oil!! Oh yea, I installed a scookum timing pointer while installing the timing cover.

Then I installed the Moroso Pan. I gotta say its butt ugly but it will get the job done. Very few options for the 351W based engine pans with less than an 8" sump depth and cleared for a 4.1"stroker crank. Seems to be well made though. The other plusses are it comes equiped with a bung for an oil temp probe and has two magnetic drain plugs.

Next up was the Weiand dual plane intake. I've used this intake in my last three engine build and I like the throtle responce and they are very well made. The pushrods will be here in the AM, when they go in it will be time for the Comp Cam Roller Rockers 6:1, then set all the valve lashes. Pretty simple with hydraulic flat tappets. Then I can seal it up and prep for the run stand.

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I'm ready to put the engine on my test stand. First I needed to remove my 331 Stroker from my test stand. Before I did I wanted to run it one more time as It might be a few months before it gets back on the run stand. I also wanted to see if I could make a video and post it here so this is a test run.

Sorry about turning my cell camera 90' during the filming. I wont do that again!


https://youtu.be/BL8hPD-60X4

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The pushrods showed up this morning. Took about an hour to get everything installed and set up. I'll have to re-set the valves after I break in the cam. As you can see I spent the big bucks on a set of Ansen Pent Roof SBF Valve Covers.

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I got the 331 Stroker off my run stand and got the 427 ready for installation. I had to use the set up I had for the 331 as the TKX bellhousing wont fit on my runstand (yet). this required me to use the larger flywheel and matching starter I have set up for the 331. This wont matter as this will only be a test run/leak check and breaking in the cam. Once that's done I'll remove it and install the flywheel, clutch kit, bellhousing, and starter on it and install it in the car. The carb that is on it now is a 4160 Holley 600 CFM for the 331. I forgot to order a dual inlet supply line for the 4150 Brawler 750 CFM carb. It wont be here for a week (Summit in Texas) so I'll do the break in with the smaller carb.

I like my ignition wire harness nice and tidy with a minimum extra wire. Just enough slack to time the distributor. I order all the individual Taylor pieces from Summit and make my own harnesses. The vertical wire loom is from R&M. I had to buy an extra loom just to get the matching 4 wire piece thats closest to the distributor, but the final look is worth it.

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Well I started the engine only to find a major oil leak from the new Canton Pan. Seems Canton deleted the second hole back from the front that screw into the timing cover, hence the leak). So had to remove it from the run stand, put it back on the work stand and remove the pan and clean everything with MEK the re-seal it. While I was at it I installed the bellhousing that will go on the car. Just had to slightly modify the rear attach point of the run stand. Then all back togeather.

I did a half hour run in for the cam mostly at 1500 rpm, but varied slightly from 800 to 2500. At 180' the oil pressure was 55. Second run in video below. I had to cut it short as I ran out of gas! Reminder to self, gas counts as a fluid to check before starting!

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As some may recall in several of the above posts I mentioned that I might be using an origonal FE expansion tank. I bought a couple localy on C-list for $40 each. I modified the best one to fit the Windsor. I'll clean it up and put new hoses on it, install it on the run stand, then run the engine to get up to temp and see if the tank leaks before I spend the $$ to ceramic coat or chrome it.

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