2020 Coupe - Bill Justice

[chargerbill]

[IMG][/IMG]

Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe - Complete Kit
Chassis Powder Coat
Engine/Transmission Mount 5.0L coyote
Driveshaft - 5.0L Coyote with T-56 Mag
Body with Cut-Outs
Black Leather Roadster Seats
Power Steering
Standard Width Tubular Lower C Arms
2015 Mustang IRS
A/C and Heat for 5.0L Coyote
Coup Windshield Wipers
Brushed Aluminum Interior Door Handles
Coupe Side Windows
Weatherproof Battery Cutoff Switch
Front Sway Bar
Rear IRS Sway Bar
Aero Vents
Coyote Install Kit
Wheels 17 X 9 / 17 X 10.5
Double Adjustable KONI Front and Rear IRS
Mustang IRS Center Section Kit
12.88" Wilwood Front Brakes, Red Caliper
12.88" Wilwood Rear Brakes, Red Caliper

[edwardb]

Congratulations! That configuration looks nice (and very familiar ). My only comment/recommendation is take a look at those seats. If you've sat in the Coupe, maybe you've seen that part of the roll bar cage goes directly behind your head. Even a hard stop could give a serious knock. I personally recommend high back seats for the Coupe. They don't look out of place at all like in the Roadster. (My opinion.) Good luck with your build. Have fun with it.

[chargerbill]

Congratulations! That configuration looks nice (and very familiar ). My only comment/recommendation is take a look at those seats. If you've sat in the Coupe, maybe you've seen that part of the roll bar cage goes directly behind your head. Even a hard stop could give a serious knock. I personally recommend high back seats for the Coupe. They don't look out of place at all like in the Roadster. (My opinion.) Good luck with your build. Have fun with it.

I noticed that as well while reviewing your build thread. I have an idea to resolve that...

[chargerbill]

My road rocket made it home today!

A bit about me.
I worked KC-10 Extenders (air refueling) in the US Air Force and was fortunate enough to fly C-141B Starlifters (transport).
The Starlifters are in museums (Air Force Museum in Dayton, OH) and Extenders are on the chopping block.
This doesn't make me feel old at all...sarcasm.

I was known through many squadrons as a car nut and carried car magazines all over the world.
I remember reading about FFR way back when they started getting big recognition.
I liked the earlier coupe, but it just didn't seem matured to me (I'm not being critical).
Once I noticed the Gen 3 version I knew it was the one.
You see, I have been saving for a Ferrari 328GTS for some time.
But this car just does it for me. So I pulled the trigger!

My daughter is going to help me get started before going off to college.
I'm really looking forward to sharing this adventure with her.

I had my kit shipped by Stewart Transportation.
A round trip of 1,920 miles during winter season doesn't seem like a fun weekend adventure to me (I've been stuck in New England blizzards before).
The cost delta wasn't that significant to justify the pain, lol.
Also, ST has been doing this for a long time and seemed to be doing a great job.

I worked with Todd at ST and he was great.
Pleasant to talk with and proactively sent updates on the shipping status.

The driver called me and provided more detailed updates.
Excellent to work with.

I placed my order on Nov 30, 2019.
Initial pickup date Jan 18, 2020.
The pickup date was pushed by FFR.
Apparently they have been processing a lot of orders, which is great!

Patience is key.
These guys run a business and manage the logistics to deliver our product in perfect shape.
You haven't been forgotten.

Initial thoughts on the kit.
Very nicely manufactured. I couldn't be more pleased.
I really like the chassis black powder coat.
A lot of backordered items. Not that big of a deal.
There's a lot to get started on.

The inventory looks like a long and painful process.

[David Williamson]

Welcome to the fun of the Coupe world. It is a unique car and cool project.
David W

[John Dol]

Awesome, congrats and welcome!

John

[chargerbill]

Thanks all.
Not much to post but we did get a little done in the way of inventory and brake work.

[edwardb]

Congrats on your kit delivery. Looks like you're having some issues posting pictures. Instead of posting via attachments, try using the image gallery on this forum. FWIW, all the pictures in my Coupe build thread are done this way and it works great. Takes a little practice to get the process down. But after a few times you breeze right through it. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts.

[chargerbill]

Congrats on your kit delivery. Looks like you're having some issues posting pictures. Instead of posting via attachments, try using the image gallery on this forum. FWIW, all the pictures in my Coupe build thread are done this way and it works great. Takes a little practice to get the process down. But after a few times you breeze right through it. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts.

Thank you!

Your right about the picture issues.
I took the pictures with a Nikon camera that created two different file types (.NEF and .JPG).
I didn't notice this at first and the photo's wouldn't upload.
Then I deleted the .NEF and .JPG seemed to work better.

I did read the sticky about uploading pictures and will try out the gallery later.

[UpNorth]

Congrats!
The inventory process is not that "painful".
Look at it as a get-to-know the kit process.
Have fun!

From one 328GTS fan to another!

[edwardb]

Thank you!

Your right about the picture issues.
I took the pictures with a Nikon camera that created two different file types (.NEF and .JPG).
I didn't notice this at first and the photo's wouldn't upload.
Then I deleted the .NEF and .JPG seemed to work better.

I did read the sticky about uploading pictures and will try out the gallery later.

Yeah, those .NEF files (Nikon raw picture file) can't be uploaded. You'll need to use .JPG and for the forum gallery there's a size limit. I have a decent Canon digital SLR that I used for previous build threads. But my iPhone 8 Plus takes surprisingly good pictures and everything in my Coupe build thread is from my iPhone. I email them to myself in full size (12-megapixel), save on my computer, and then downsize a copy to 1280 x 1024 before uploading to the gallery. That resolution meets the gallery file size and also looks plenty good on-line. Overall process takes a few steps, but not hard once you get the hang of it.

X2 on using the inventory as a chance to get to know the kit and its contents. Don't just cross the items off the packing list. Take a minute to know what each one is, where it goes, including looking up in the manual if necessary. Don't rush through it. It can be an excellent learning process that will pay benefits later.

[chargerbill]

I finished the inventory. A few discrepancies but I'm quite impressed that 99% was as expected.
The kit had a lot of backordered items when initially prepared and were added as available.
This caused a lot of edits to the inventory list.
I did label most of the unpainted parts as I went to prepare for powder coating.
The standard leather roadster seat is no longer available and the big and tall seats were delivered (I'm neither big or tall, lol).
The seats feel comfortable but curious about how they will do long term?

There are some backordered items and unfortunately a few key items that prevent me from working on the front suspension (shocks, springs and lower A-arms, etc). I'll get the steering rack installed and see what I else can be addressed.
I just want to get this started.
Rear suspension?

One of the pleasant surprises was the exhaust system.
It is polished (I think the earlier cars had unfinished stainless?) and has the ball type flange for ease of adjustment.
I almost deleted it from my order and I'm glad that I didn't.

[edwardb]

Factory Five made the "big and tall" Roadster seats their standard offering a couple years ago. They are slightly thinner in the back and base. They're pretty sturdy. No reason they will hold up any differently than the others. They no longer offer the regular seats. Those new pipes are a big improvement over the plain steel (not stainless) that came with my kit. In appearance anyway and that ball joint will hopefully let the alignment be more straightforward. Will be curious to hear about the sound level. The previous ones were ridiculously loud.

[cob427sc]

I built one of the first coupes and it was a challenge. I know they have improved virtually everything over the years. The original pipes were plain steel and did not incorporate the newer ball type flanges and required floor jacking and jumping on the pipes to get them to fit correctly. And yes, they were loud and became really loud after a few thousand miles.
Mine was built with a 347 engine supplied directly from Ford Racing as I was doing consulting work for Ford at the time. Way to much of a racing engine for the street but man did it go! Good luck to you on your build!

[Indy Shu]

Chargerbill,
Congrats on getting your build started. Where are you in Indy? I'm on the NE side and would like to meet you sometime. If you ever need a hand, I would be happy to help.
John

[chargerbill]

This weekend was the build kickoff.

The steering rack installed without issue although the torque for the mounting bolts wasn't defined in the manual.
I torqued them to 40 ft/lbs (found this online) but I will do some research to verify.

The IRS differential was a challenge to install but I took my time and it went well.
A bit nervous about drilling out the front mounting holes in a new part.
I used a floor jack with a motorcycle cradle and lifted the rear with the driveshaft mount pointing up.
Once close, I positioned it properly using a tie down strap to hold the yoke up.

I then moved onto the IRS.
Really nice system!
All of the threaded components were lubricated with a marine grade grease.
The manual doesn't mention greasing them...
The mounting spindles require drilling out one of the holes and removing a mounting point.
Boring the hole out was straight forward along with cutting the mount off.
The manual recommended a Sawzall which I used for one them.
I found a cutting wheel works best.
Still going to finish off the cut and send the spindles out for powder coating.
I didn't set adjustments in any way. I'll do that later.
If I was going to do this again I would cut the inserts for the mounting points down 1/16".
I had to cut one down to allow installation.
Mounting the A-arms would be much easier.
I'm waiting on the shocks and springs so this area is done for now.

I was hoping to get further along this weekend but it has taken some time locating parts since they are scattered in multiple boxes.
The number of empty boxes and packing material adds up quickly.
I have taken numerous trips to dispose of unneeded material and am glad to do it!

I'll start on the front suspension and remove the body this week.

John,
I'm on the north side.
Been under the weather but once I'm healthy again I'll invite you over!

[edwardb]

...If I was going to do this again I would cut the inserts for the mounting points down 1/16".
I had to cut one down to allow installation. Mounting the A-arms would be much easier...

Sounds like you're trimming (or planning to...) trim the inner sleeves on the suspension components? I'd highly recommend against that. It's extremely common for the mounting ears on the chassis to be tight or even too narrow for the parts to fit. But they're easily adjusted. Either with a large adjustable (aka Crescent) style wrench or more preferred a piece of threaded rod and some nuts and washers. Put the threaded rod through the holes with washers and nuts against the inside on both sides. Then wrench it enough to open the mounting ears. Easy fix.

[P100DHG]

I would highly recommend reading through my build thread. I had this same issue and many more I’m sure you’ll encounter and I discussed my solution. I really took a lot of time to document difficulties and solutions to help other guys at the expense of looking like I know it all. I completely agree with Paul, his solution is correct. I have pictures of it in the link below. Do not sand or shave those. You want all the metal there you can get. Here is how to solve it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post359744

Good luck, good question too. Check out my thread it even has a table of contents so you can get to what you want quickly. Also at the top I have a link to my build questions which are on a separate thread. Many people chimed in to solve problems also.

[chargerbill]

edwardb/P100DHG,
Thanks for the feedback.
Two of the sleeves were longer than the others.
I trimmed one down and life was much easier, lol.
If I were to do this again, I would measure them all and ensure a standard length.

[chargerbill]

Not much progress to report.

Took a bunch of parts in for powder coat.

I have a large backorder of parts that seem to impede the ability to complete a task.
The double adjustable Koni shocks are at least a month out.
The production tooling that manufactures part of the shock is broken.
Some of the aluminum panels along with the front lower control arms are supposed to ship this week.

I did remove the body and used a few tips from other threads (removed some of the interior aluminum panels).

[Yamahasrx700]

If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to deliver? I am in Illinois and its about the same distance?

[chargerbill]

I sent you a Pm.
Although it seems like a standard charge from what I've seen.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to deliver? I am in Illinois and its about the same distance?

[chargerbill]

I received some backordered parts.
Mostly aluminum panels but the front lower A arms made it with the door frames and hinges.
Still waiting on shock assemblies along with a few other things.

The IRS hub assemblies have been installed with the axles.
I was going to have the hubs powder coated but changed my mind.

The aluminum panels that were installed from FFR have been removed.
The foot boxes have been re-assembled and drilled for riveting and nutserts.
I have really enjoyed this part of the build and it feels like progress.

Although I'm not ready to permanently attach the panels the manual does suggest a sealant when doing so.
I'm curious if anyone has used an automotive seam sealer?

[edwardb]

Looks familiar. Sure a lot of clecos (forum joke ). I wouldn't recommend seam sealer. The manual recommends using silicone (RTV) while also actually is a sealant but when applied in the proper amount becomes a strong adhesive between the chassis and the aluminum panels. The bond becomes a combination of the rivets plus the adhesive. So the purpose is more than just a sealant. Some guys use and recommend a more aggressive adhesive like polyurethane (Sikaflex 221 and Bostik 1100 are two examples) which is even stronger. I've used both silicone RTV and polyurethane, and find in either case the bond is strong enough that the panels won't come off without heavy damage.

One other comment. Although not shown in the manual, I'd highly recommend making those footbox tops removeable. Or at least a portion of them. That will provide much needed access for the pedal box on the DS and the A/C - heat unit on the PS. If you're installing. I split them so the portion under the body cowl is fixed and the rest is removable. Pictures in my aluminum panel gallery here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1228.

[chargerbill]

Thank you Edwardb! I'll use RTV since it works good.
I will use nutserts for the top of the footboxes.
I've went through your forum a few times. It's really good.
Talk soon!

[chargerbill]

Hoping to get guidance from the master builders.

How should the radiator duct back and sides be mounted to the frame?
Bottom of the duct back mounted flush with the bottom frame rail?
I have no idea about the duct sides...

Do the center console tops mount inside or outside of the side panels?

I should have all of the sheet metal ready for powder coat by tomorrow.

[edwardb]

Every one of your questions are shown in the manual with words and pictures. Kind of spread around in the order of how they're installed. But it's all there and listed in the table of contents. You'll probably find like I did that the cooling tunnel sides will need to trimmed at the bottom to give clearance for the opening hood. But that doesn't change where they're mounted.

[chargerbill]

edwardb,
The manual is kinda misleading.
I figured out my issue and verified by reviewing the inventory sheet (6B).
I assumed that the radiator duct was only three pieces when it uses four pieces (radiator duct back (1), radiator duct back top (1) and radiator duct side (2).
I then looked at your gallery link and verified. I may have saved a copy of it as well...lol.
The top is just setting there for now. I'll get to it shortly and put it place.

It's time to clean the garage floor. I have metal shavings everywhere.

I considered adding a storage space in the back, but decided against it.
I need more clecos, lol!

[edwardb]

edwardb,
The manual is kinda misleading.
I figured out my issue and verified by reviewing the inventory sheet (6B).
I assumed that the radiator duct was only three pieces when it uses four pieces (radiator duct back (1), radiator duct back top (1) and radiator duct side (2).
I then looked at your gallery link and verified. I may have saved a copy of it as well...lol.
The top is just setting there for now. I'll get to it shortly and put it place.

Looks like Factory Five made a change there. My kit (now 2+ years ago, hard to believe...) had a single piece back with a bend at the top. Now it's two pieces. I've noticed that in a couple other build threads. Not sure when the change was made but clearly is different between mine and yours. Glad you figured it out.

[chargerbill]

I have completed pre-fitting most of the aluminum panels.
My first set of parts that were sent to powder coating are finished.
Hoping to pick up the parts once the travel restrictions are lifted.

I do have a question though.
Should the dash be riveted to the firewall?

[edwardb]

Instructions show bulb seal on the whole back edge of the dash, which is what I did. It seals against the underside of the body when installed, which is important. There's also bulb seal on the firewall, but not on that specific spot with the flange. With the bulb seal on both you won't be able to rivet plus it's not needed. The dash is firmly held in place between the body and firewall. Plus if you ever wanted to pull the dash out, you might be able to without it riveted. I really hope not to find out. Some suggest putting the firewall on top of the body flange for that reason. Obviously different than how the instructions show. I didn't go that way.

[UpNorth]

chargerbill,
Is the radiator duct back top part number 60751? It’s in my alu box but not on sheet 6B and not mentioned in my manual or latest electronic version of it.
I was a little confuse also this morning as I was trying to figure out why the side panels were higher than the back panel.
Can you post a picture of how you installed it so I can make sure I don’t screw up?
TIA

[Ray Cecil]

I can't wait to have enough post counts to see photos!!! +1

[chargerbill]

chargerbill,
Is the radiator duct back top part number 60751? It’s in my alu box but not on sheet 6B and not mentioned in my manual or latest electronic version of it.
I was a little confuse also this morning as I was trying to figure out why the side panels were higher than the back panel.
Can you post a picture of how you installed it so I can make sure I don’t screw up?
TIA

Post 28 has a picture attached.
It is part number 60751.

Sorry for the late response.

[chargerbill]

I can't wait to have enough post counts to see photos!!! +1

I highly suggest you check out the post of edwardb.
They are very good.

Bill

[chargerbill]

I'm fairly confident that I've added a unique feature to the coupe.
A waste disposal unit in a fancy blue hue.

Also, I brought in a few motorcycles from my other garage.
A 2015 Indian Chief and a 2017 Husqvarna 701. I did get to ride both during a rare chance of nice weather in Indianapolis.

The interior aluminum panels have been removed and sent to powder coating.
I was surprised that Indy Powder Coating is open.
They told me that they do work for the military and was asked by the DOD to continue running.
I'm hoping for a tour when I pick up my parts.

I am sold on Lizard Skin for the interior and exterior of the chassis along with a coating in the body (excluding the hood).
I'm going to try to make this car quiet and drivable enough for the woman to drive. Maybe it's a lost cause...
Looks like 7 gallons of ceramic coating and 8 gallons of acoustic coating. Does that sound about right?